In a bold and very shrewd move, the five-star Lowry Hotel has defied fashionable culinary convention and launched a new à la carte menu featuring a range of enduring culinary classics.

The dishes include the likes of Split Pea and Ham Soup, Potted Brown Shrimps, Twice-baked Lancashire Bomb Cheese Soufflé and Crab Macaroni Cheese amongst the starters; Beef Wellington, Whole Dover Sole and Steamed Beef Shin, Oxtail and Kidney Pudding as stand-out mains, and desserts such as Rhubarb Trifle, Steamed Pudding and Custard, and Baked Alaska are sure to delight.

It’s the sort of menu over which business deals were done in the Savoy Grill and political stitch-ups struck in the gentlemen’s clubs of Belgravia during l-o-n-g lunches and sophisticated dinners of yore.

Dining destination

The change in direction suggests that the two-AA Rosette River Restaurant and Bar, overlooking Santiago Calatrava’s elegant bridge, intends to restore its reputation as a must-visit dining destination and provide a contrast to the casualisation evident in other Manchester hotel restaurants.

Executive Chef Andrew Green, using premium ingredients and local suppliers, has taken traditional dishes and updated them; a demonstration that the highly experienced chef from Glossop is really hitting his stride.

“You could argue that the city is now passing the craze for small plates, and diners are craving a return to a slightly more organised approach and one which makes them feel special. We have adopted a traditional approach for the new menu, complete with a series of modern twists, so diners can enjoy refined cooking in an enjoyable and informal setting. We believe certain dishes, such as the Dover Sole, are only available here in the whole of Greater Manchester, and we’re looking forward to welcoming both those patrons who know and love what we do and diners seeking a special eating out experience.” – Andrew Green

Nostalgic treat

There’s a nostalgic treat in store for diners old enough to remember when chefs produced dishes you wanted to eat rather than look at. Eating should be a sensual experience, not a cerebral one. These dishes are, in short, baby boomers’ culinary gifts to millennials. I just hope they’ll be suitably grateful.

At the menu’s media launch, the Pea and Ham Soup, Crab Macaroni Cheese and Potted Brown Shrimps (with their sea-salty tang, traditionally set in rich shrimp butter) boasted top notch ingredients and were allowed full rein to express their flavours.

The Beef Wellington, a perfectly medium-rare fillet – wrapped in mushroom duxelles and Parma ham, then baked in crisp puff pastry – was superb and timed to the second. Served with Madeira sauce, it’s one of a number of dishes on the menu to share between two and brought to the table and showcased by the chef before being sliced.

Show-stopping

The Meunière-style Whole Dover Sole, one of the finest of flatfish, can be served on or off the bone and other fish options, rarely seen these days on restaurant menus, included Scottish Halibut Fillet and a show-stopping Traditional Fish Pie.

The Best of British selection of desserts yielded Steamed Treacle Sponge, packed with dried fruits and spiced with orange zest and nutmeg, and which takes an hour to be steamed. Don’t forget to order it early along with the other courses.

You could really taste the love.

The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Salford, Manchester M3 5LH. Tel: 0161 827 4000.  thelowryhotel.com