To the casual observer it might appear that “Niagara Falls” would be a single entity but that would be making a profound mistake. The river Niagara is part of the boundary between the USA and Canada and the two countries have taken dramatically different approaches to promoting this Wonder of the World spectacular.
Perhaps surprisingly it is the American side that is the more relaxed, less in your face and close to nature, while the Canadians focus more on entertainment and attractions. I recently spent a week on the US side and this is what I found.
My first thought was – however spectacular – do I really want to spend eight hours flying to look at a waterfall? To be honest the answer was no, not really. But I really did want to see the Falls so, with the help of Niagara Falls State Park I planned a diverse routine working out what I could do in the area to justify the trip. It turned out the answer was “lots and lots.”
But first the Falls themselves. And it is Falls plural. The Horseshoe, American and Bridal Veil are distinct, separate and gigantic torrents. Whatever you have seen or imagined: prepare to have your mind blown. My hotel room over-looked the Niagara River as it sped towards the cataracts. Even at a distance of several hundred yards before the climax the speed of the river and the volume of water was between impressive and terrifying. As you walk through the astonishing Parkland – established in 1885, Niagara is the oldest state park in America – alongside the close-enough-to-touch river, the volume of the crashing plunge to come increases with every yard. Up rooted trees are visible in the torrent and back eddies create a spume of mist that in the early morning can obscure the view of the opposite river bank.
Wildlife in the park includes Canada Geese and, to my surprise, at least one baby deer which leapt out of a thicket just in front of me! There are miles of designated trails and wonderful scenery in the huge area the New York State Park covers.
Leaving the hotel and then turning a corner of the footpath alongside the river, the full fury of the Falls turns into a crescendo. It is a real mouth open, jaw dropped moment.
Taking a lift down to a platform below I boarded the Maid of the Mist wearing the obligatory plastic water protection, supposed to be head to foot but in reality a fig-leaf against the power of the water you are about to encounter. On the top deck of the Maid you appear to go almost inside the falling water, the noise is all-but deafening, the sheer power of nature humbling.
But to me the highlight is yet to come. A ten minute walk takes me to the Cave of the Winds on Bridal Veil Falls where you can stand directly under the waterfall – and touch the water! All but 80,000 gallons of water a second pass within inches of your head while you stand on a wooden platform reach out your hand and become part of the river. Not something I will ever forget. In total the three falls discharge 757,500 gallons of water every second!
Finally I took my last look at The Falls watching a spectacular light show. Truly memorable.
There is also a Whirlpool Jet Boat Tour of the rapids, left behind when this huge volume of water joins the river downstream. Very much a “white knuckle ride” beyond anything the UK has to offer. It can be experienced in open or closed boats. Personally, I advise closed unless you have a few changes of clothes to hand. Exhilarating, frightening and fun.
But, amazing that this spectacle is, it still left me with a few days to fill. What to do? Well, it turns out that two of the most significant events of the history of America took place within a few miles of Niagara Falls.
Underground Railroad
This was the name for the secret network of routes and so-called safe houses used by slaves in the United States to escape into Canada. There is no concrete data but it is highly likely that Niagara Falls was the busiest route of all. To cross the river below the Falls was extremely hazardous. My guide, Saladin Allah, was a direct descendent of “Uncle Tom”, whose Cabin was famously chronicled by Harriet Beecher-Stowe. The exhibition is both moving and informative. Saladin was, obviously, an expert but no tub-thumper. The horrors of slavery and the dangers of escape are depicted with the aid of state of the art videos and wall graphics. Highly recommended.
Erie Canal
One of the greatest building blocks for civil engineering in United States of America, the Erie Canal essentially linked the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean reducing freight costs by up to 90%. Politically opposed at the time, this 363 mile canal transformed the East Coast and was pivotal in boosting the economy and influence of New York State.. Just a 25 minute mile drive from Niagara Falls is Lockport where a spectacular flight of five locks lifts boats 60 feet to ensure the canal crosses the Niagara Escarpment which historically divided the country. At Lockport visitors can take boats up and down the locks and also hire electric bikes to ride alongside the canal.
The Old Fort
For more than 300 years the Old Fort Niagara has sat at the mouth of the Niagara River as it carries water from Lake Ontario towards the Falls and onwards. The fort was founded by the French and then occupied by Great Britain, and finally, the United States. The Old Fort controlled access to the Great Lakes and the route to the West.
Incidentally my very first view of one of the Great Lakes – Ontario – changed my view of what a Lake District might look like. These guys ain’t just big – they are beyond enormous. And you have a super view across the expanse of Toronto.
Visitors to the fort today will see the oldest buildings in the Great Lakes region, living history programmes, exhibits, and special events. My guide for the day was the legendary larger than life Bob Emerson,who appears to have lived and breathed the Old Fort most of his life and knows every inch of these painstakingly restored buildings. A hint, cover your ears during the contemporary rifle firing! It’s a bit loud.
Herschell Carrousel Factory Museum
As a man “of a certain age” this unleashed a moment of pure happiness and joy. I would not like to divulge how long it is since I last rode a Carrousel to the tune of a Wurlitzer Organ but it all but brought tears to my eyes. Based in the original Herschell factory the traditional skills are still deployed. This is the only museum of its type in the world and I’d personally make it a must-see for any visit to Niagara Falls. A large extension opens later this year.
Becker Farms
While there are conventional hotels in Niagara Falls – a Hilton Doubletree for example – for
my last night I fancied a change – and was recommended to Becker Farms. They have ten truly wonderful mini chalets set amidst wine groves and orchards. Each has its own fire pit for barbecues while the Farms has bars and restaurants serving home grown beers and wines. There’s a bakery and farm shop so no need to provision on the way. You are likely to be greeted by the wonderful Mindy of the fourth generation to have farmed this land. Her children are now in charge as the fifth generation. There’s a huge range of things for both adults and children to do here so multiple nights can be enjoyed in this tranquil setting.
Aquarium of Niagara
Situated on the outskirts of the town Niagara Falls is this genuinely charming project. It’s small – but everything you’d like an aquarium to be. They take in injured creatures and care for and rehabilitate them. All the food they are served is sustainable and they have breeding programmes across all species including the lovable Penguins. They are Autism certified and deaf visitors have their own QR-based information at each point on the tour. Tours take two hours and include feeding opportunities. There’s loads of climate change and sea-level rises information written around the Aquarium but it is informative and not judgemental. Above all the staff have a genuine love and duty of care to their fishy friends. I recommend it!
And there’s more!
You really should include tours around wineries such as Arrowhead Spring Vineyards where Duncan Ross is dedicated to making superb wines rather than just making more of them and orchards such as Donovan Orchards Estates where, again, Scott Donovan decides that small and excellent is the best route for cider. Both generous and informative hosts.
Add a visit to the Impressive Niagara Power Vista, not to mention numerous excellent bars and restaurants – as a grilling enthusiast I stopped at The Brickyard BBQ & Brewery* just below the Falls – and the Seneca Niagara Resort and Casino and there really is so much to do on the American side of The Falls that a busy week would soon fly past.
*So good I bought a large container of their own rub for meats and can confirm it is a great contribution to my barbecue efforts.
Getting to Niagara Falls USA
By Air
The Buffalo Niagara International Airport (BUF) is just a 25-mile ride to and from downtown Niagara Falls, NY.
From the UK, fly with airlines including JetBlue, BA, KLM and Virgin Atlantic.
By Train
The Amtrak Niagara Falls Station (NFL) is located less than five miles from Niagara Falls State Park and downtown Niagara Falls, NY. The station is served by the Empire Service and Maple Leaf train, connecting the region to the east coast and Canada.
By Jay Fagan
