The first thing that envelops you when you enter the Four Seasons Hotel Rabat at Kasr Al Bahri is the fragrance. A captivating perfume called IKSIR permeates the air, an expensive aroma of ancient cedar trees, bergamot and floral notes. It is simply divine.
Rabat may not have the loucheness of Tangier or the madness of Marrakech, but that’s an advantage. You can stroll around the medina or take a camel ride in the desert, but then retreat to this sophisticated and elegant city for a relaxing culture-fuelled coastal break.
Morocco’s capital is heading confidently into the future with buildings such as Zaha Hadid’s Grand Theatre and the Mohammed Tower VI – modern architectural landmarks that are reason enough to book a flight here right now. Another is the World Cup 2030, which this soccer-mad nation will co-host with Portugal and Spain. The stunning Four Seasons Rabat is a magnificent, fairly recent addition to the city, too – and a likely hangout for all those footballers!
Housed in a historic palace built in the 18th Century as a summer residence for Sultan Moulay Slimane, Kasr Al Bahr is known as the Palace by the Sea, and it is an iconic landmark that has now been transformed by architect Karim Chakor into a sensational 200-room resort.
From its fabulous location overlooking the glittering Atlantic Ocean, the sprawling complex has played a vital role in Rabat’s rich history, not only as a royal residence but as a famed military hospital, and now it has a new role as the most prestigious place to stay in this intriguing capital.
We stay in a room with one of the best views over the pool and to the Atlantic Ocean beyond. The interior is the embodiment of comfort, soft carpeting, soundproofing and a state-of-the-art bathroom. Standing beneath the shower, close your eyes and imagine you’re being cleansed in the gentlest of downpours. Lunch poolside, and our energetic host Stefano greets us like great friends. This may be a posh hotel in every sense of the word, but there is no stiffness, only excellent service.
We eat salad and seafood at Flamme restaurant, sheltered from the Moroccan sun under umbrellas, the orange hue of Hermes branding, surrounded by palm trees wafting in a warm breeze.
Flamme is one of several restaurants and bars, including Bar Atlantique, which has a fantastic range of wines and spirits as well as cocktails. Oh! It would be rude not to. I choose a Negroni, and my partner has a Caipirinha. The bar is a bit of a place to be, and by 6pm, it begins to get busy. Dinner is at Verdello, a stunning restaurant with sea view terraces, glamorous under dimmed lights. The design incorporates a homage to traditional Moroccan homes with sedari (modular sofas which line the walls).
Highlights from the kitchen helmed by Sebastiano Spriveri include a deliciously marbled Coppa cured pork, the king of Italian charcuterie, served with sides of pickles and a soft, creamy burrata and heritage tomato starter with fresh basil pesto. A rigatoni for me, rich in sauce and truffle and John Dory, served with a buttery sauce and asparagus follow.
It’s the details which make this hotel special. The beautiful leather bookmark placed between the pages of my current read, the little leather fastener to keep my charging cable neat and tidy, the cabinet containing elegant wine glasses, tea and coffee and minibar, Diptyque products in the bathroom and the way the place smells. Yes, I need to mention that again!
And finally, the restaurant staff, who provide impeccable service – and will even guide you through the labyrinthine corridors of this former palace to your destination, whether it’s to the beautiful state-of-the-art spa, where you can enjoy a massage, facial or a traditional hamam, or to the cigar bar (opening next year). A special place? You bet!
Janet Reeder was a guest of the Four Seasons Hotel Rabat at Kasr Al Bahri.
Ancien Hopital Marie Feuillet, Avenue Roudani, Quatier de l’Ocean, Rabat
+212 5380 51200 // www.fourseasons.com/rabat
By Janet Reeder
